Introduction of special printing knowledge of the

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Introduction to special printing knowledge of knitted cashmere clothing

sweater printing usually includes flat screen printing and cylinder screen printing. The former is suitable for the printing of clothing pieces, and the latter is suitable for continuous printing. In sweater printing, except for a small part of cylinder screen printing, most sweater products use flat screen printing, and in flat screen printing, manual platen printing is mainly used. Sweater screen printing can be divided into steam printing, pigment printing, low-temperature printing and relief printing according to the specific process. Today, this paper focuses on relief printing

people will see a kind of embossed cashmere sweater in the market, which has the characteristics of embossed concave convex pattern, plump texture, hazy texture and soft color. For cast iron, cast alloy and buildings, it will soon be found that brittle materials such as materials are particularly suitable and have strong contrast under light. It gives people an eye-catching three-dimensional pattern visually, feels greasy and forms a unique appearance effect, which is deeply loved by the majority of consumers. Many people don't know why this concave convex pattern appears in sweaters. This relief effect is neither woven, nor printed with rotten flowers, nor foam printing. How can there be concave convex patterns on the sweater? This also starts with the physical and chemical properties of cashmere

first, the organizational structure of cashmere

in the wool fiber, there are wool, goat hair, wool free, etc. Cashmere is the wool obtained from goat hair, which is light, fine, soft, soft, slippery and waxy, and is called soft gold measured in grams. Cashmere is a slender solid cylindrical body, which is curly. The tissue structure of the fiber is divided into three layers, namely, the scale layer, the cortex layer and the medulla layer

shrinkage is the biggest feature of cashmere sweaters. The existence of shrinkage also leads to the instability of fabric size (sweaters after washing tend to become smaller). Relief printing is made by using the cashmere fiber surface scale shrinking principle

Second, the mechanism of fuzzing

animal hair fibers under the action of damp heat and chemical reagents, after repeated extrusion by external mechanical forces, the fiber aggregate gradually shrinks tightly and intertwines with each other, interweaving felts. This characteristic is called the fuzzing property of wool fibers. The reason why wool fabric can be shrunk is very complicated. The mechanism of wool fiber shrinkage generally has the following reasons

it has been observed under the microscope that the surface of cashmere fiber is covered with many scales. The free end of the scales points to the tip of the cashmere fiber. When there is a cashmere shrinking agent, the cashmere fiber will be wet and expand, making the scales open. At this time, a certain external force is applied to the cashmere, and the cashmere starts to move, which makes the wool fiber have directional friction. That is, the coefficient of friction along the scale is small, but the coefficient of friction against the scale is large, and there is a coefficient difference between the inverse and the CIS (that is, the coefficient of friction against the scale direction is always greater than the coefficient of friction along the scale direction when the fiber is rubbing). In addition, under the environment of external humidity and heat and the existence of chemical additives (shrinkage agents), when the sweater is repeatedly kneaded by external mechanical forces, there is a one-way movement trend towards the fiber root end. In addition, the wool has excellent extensibility, resilience and spatial curling, which makes the wool fiber easier to move, so that the wool fibers are intertwined with each other, resulting in intertwined felting, and the wool end is gradually exposed on the fabric surface, Make the fabric good in appearance, hand metal material twists and turns test method gb/t 232 ⑴ 999, rich in feeling, soft in texture, and has a good heat preservation effect. Practice has proved that fine cashmere has more scales than coarse wool, so the shrinkage of fine cashmere is better than that of coarse wool. Wool has more scales than rabbit hair, so the fleece shrinkage of wool is better than rabbit hair. In addition to the scale theory and the elasticity theory, people also explain the cashmere shrinkage mechanism from different angles according to some characteristics and experimental phenomena of wool, such as the theory of depilation, the theory of curl, the theory of strain relaxation and so on. However, the main view that can be generally accepted is that the shrinkage linearity of wool is determined by directional friction effect and high tensile resilience, both of which are indispensable. The former is called braking factor, and the latter is called dynamic factor

III. design of embossed printing pattern

embossed printing is also known as embossed finishing. Cashmere shrinking technology is a special finishing process for cashmere knitted clothing, which is a unique process different from any other knitting industry. Therefore, relief printing is an organic combination of printing process and finishing process of cashmere fabric. The design of flower pattern is different from that of ordinary printing pattern. Generally, the pattern design and printing process design of printing factory are completed in two production stages, and even carried out by two separate departments. Because relief printing contains both printing process and cashmere shrinking process, the organic combination of the two parts can produce excellent products. That is to say, art designers and process designers should communicate with each other, cooperate closely, and learn from each other to produce a good pattern through a reasonable and advanced process, so as to better complete the task of embossed printing of sweaters. Because the clothes before and after cashmere shrinking need to be completely different, such as size, density, appearance, hand feeling and other changes. As a result, the clothing becomes full in texture, hazy in texture, soft in color and greasy in hand, giving full play to the physical characteristics of cashmere fiber and forming a unique appearance effect. The effect of any original texture will be chaotic after the flocking process. Therefore, the texture commonly used on cashmere sweaters in the past may not be suitable for the process requirements of shrunk cashmere sweaters. Therefore, the placement of the experimental machine that will produce those appearance effects on the shrunk clothing must be considered in the sample design: the main body of the hydraulic universal experimental machine and the dynamometer device do not need special foundation changes, which is an important part to be considered in the cashmere clothing design. Embossed printing is mainly used on woolen sweaters that need to be shrunk. It uses a silk printing machine to carry out a series of activities such as plate making, color matching, proofing, color paste blending, etc. according to the fabric performance and pattern characteristics, so as to reflect the pattern on clothing

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